Monday, August 23, 2010

Stetind Sydpillaren, Guiding the South Pillar of Stetind

The South Pillar (Sydpillaren) is in the middle left of the face.  Our approach is up the grassy ramp to the base of the Pillar.
Håkon (a master student in Mathematics from Ålesund) and Erik (a Doctor here in Lofoten) hired me to guide them up the ultra-classic South Pillar of Stedind this weekend.  We climbed the route with great weather and in perfect style.  The South Pillar (Sydpillaren) of Stetind is 12 pitches of impeccable alpine granite towering above Tysfjord, about an hour south of Narvik.  Approach takes about three hours from the ocean to the base of the route.  The climbing is on high quality rock and offers a great variety of climbing.  The first four pitches are crack systems up the lower slab leading into steeper and steeper climbing through corners and chimney's too the upper headwall (5.7-5.9).  The last four pitches on the headwall are in a steep corner system (5.10) topping out just below the large summit of Stetind.  This has to be one the most varied and aesthetic alpine rock climbs I have ever guided.  Big smiles and great views all day.  Enjoy the pictures!  Make sure to click the images to see them full size.     
Morning Light on the last water source of the approach.  Tasted as good as it looks.

On the approach to Stetind.
Fun easy climbing on the lower pitches.
Håkon on the fresh granite of the lower route.  A large rock fall a few years ago made this pitch harder and better climbing.
Hakon above the clouds on pitch 6.
Clean and fun climbing on the upper half of Stetind.
The guys on the one of the belay transitions. Tysfjord in the background.
Exiting the clean corner and into the hand crack.  Pitch 12.
South Pillar of Stetind.  Last technical pitch.
Top out right to the summit register.
Summit Photo!
The upper half of the South Pillar is on the left Skyline.  Classic East Ridge (descent), right hand ridge.
Looking back to the Lofoten Islands on the way back to the Ferry.
Sunset on Stetind from the Ferry back to Lofoten.

Thanks for checking out the trip report.  Climb the South Pillar of Stetind with Northern Alpine Guides next summer!