Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Must watch Video!

If you love skiing like we do you must watch this video!  These Canadians are doing it right.

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Early winter in Lofoten, Norway!

We have had an amazing start to our "winter" this fall! We are out skiing as much as possible enjoying great skiing conditions here in Lofoten. I will let the pictures tell the story. Click Here to see a full slide show of the Ski Guiding Tours we have been on so far this Fall!

Monday, August 23, 2010

Stetind Sydpillaren, Guiding the South Pillar of Stetind

The South Pillar (Sydpillaren) is in the middle left of the face.  Our approach is up the grassy ramp to the base of the Pillar.
Håkon (a master student in Mathematics from Ålesund) and Erik (a Doctor here in Lofoten) hired me to guide them up the ultra-classic South Pillar of Stedind this weekend.  We climbed the route with great weather and in perfect style.  The South Pillar (Sydpillaren) of Stetind is 12 pitches of impeccable alpine granite towering above Tysfjord, about an hour south of Narvik.  Approach takes about three hours from the ocean to the base of the route.  The climbing is on high quality rock and offers a great variety of climbing.  The first four pitches are crack systems up the lower slab leading into steeper and steeper climbing through corners and chimney's too the upper headwall (5.7-5.9).  The last four pitches on the headwall are in a steep corner system (5.10) topping out just below the large summit of Stetind.  This has to be one the most varied and aesthetic alpine rock climbs I have ever guided.  Big smiles and great views all day.  Enjoy the pictures!  Make sure to click the images to see them full size.     
Morning Light on the last water source of the approach.  Tasted as good as it looks.

On the approach to Stetind.
Fun easy climbing on the lower pitches.
Håkon on the fresh granite of the lower route.  A large rock fall a few years ago made this pitch harder and better climbing.
Hakon above the clouds on pitch 6.
Clean and fun climbing on the upper half of Stetind.
The guys on the one of the belay transitions. Tysfjord in the background.
Exiting the clean corner and into the hand crack.  Pitch 12.
South Pillar of Stetind.  Last technical pitch.
Top out right to the summit register.
Summit Photo!
The upper half of the South Pillar is on the left Skyline.  Classic East Ridge (descent), right hand ridge.
Looking back to the Lofoten Islands on the way back to the Ferry.
Sunset on Stetind from the Ferry back to Lofoten.

Thanks for checking out the trip report.  Climb the South Pillar of Stetind with Northern Alpine Guides next summer!


Thursday, July 22, 2010

Guiding the Classic Stetind in Northern Norway

The Mighty Stetind!
On July 7th the Sun came out with full force in Northern Norway and I guided 6 clients up the world class Alpine Ridge Climb: South East Ridge of Stetind (Norwegian 4+, US 5.7).  Johanna Stålnacke worked with me to lead a strong group of 6 from Trondheim up this iconic peak.  Conditions were perfect and we all enjoyed the trip to the fullest.  I have climbed Stetind once before by the more challenging South Pillar Route (Norwegian 6, US IV 5.10) and jumped at the chance to get back on this amazing peak.  Thanks to everyone who climbed Stetind with Northern Alpine Guides!  Enjoy the Pictures:
Johanna soaking up the sunshine and views on the approach.
This is the start of the climbing on the S.E. Ridge of Stetind.  The Route descends a few hundred meters before climbing back up the exposed granite ridge seen here.
"Au Cheval" climbing right from the start.  Classic and Exposed.  Fun.
Climbers gaining the ridge after the 5.7 crux finger traverse.
Roar loving the climbing!
Roar is proud to be Norwegian on top of Norway's National Mountain.
Summit Shot!!!
Beautiful scenery on the hike out to the car parked a stone throw from Tysfjord.
View of Stetind from the Ferry back to Lofoten.
This week I'm back in Lofoten, Rock Guiding the classic routes on the Islands.  I had a blast on Stetind and look forward to guiding it more this summer.  Sign up for guided trip up Stetind.  You won't regret it!



Monday, July 5, 2010

Rock and Alpine Guiding in the Lofoten Islands. The season is in full effect!

We have been very busy with guiding and building up our programs in the Lofoten Islands for this summer.  Our travels have taken us to the Far West of the island chain a small town of Å, yeah that is really the name just Å, and the next village Riene (rain).  We ended up staying 3 days out west scouting first ascent potential before heading back to our town of Kabelvåg.  Here are a few pictures from Western Lofoten.
Amazing Midnight Sun blasting through the pass.

The Mystical Skarv chilling on a rock watching the weather roll in from the North Sea.
Helvetestinden... Translates the Hell's Mountain.  Doesn't look that bad?
Since traveling out West I have been busy climbing and guiding around the house.  The temperatures have warmed up and this last week or so has been great summer conditions.  Northern Alpine Guides started the summer season up here working with Hanne a 21 local who wanted to improve her skill set and learn to lead placing here own protection.  I set up a custom course for her.  By the end of her course she was leading very well and safely.  Here are few pictures from this trip.

Hanne belaying on a challenging 5.10 on Festvåg above Henningsvær.
Hanne Leading out with Prestin's amazing granite in the background.
 Maren and I took our friend Erling up the North Ridge of Vågankollen an amazing Alpine climb at solid 5.7 with unreal views.  We started at the 8:30 pm and got back to the car at 7 am climbing all night with my sunglasses on in the Northern midnight sun... Unreal!  Enjoy the pictures.
Gaining the Col below the North Ridge.

Storm Pillar North Face in the Midnight Sun!  14pitches of Steep Rock Climbing.

Maren enjoying some fun climbing on the lower ridge.

Sunglasses and even shorts at about 1am.

Erling enjoying some 5.7 finger cracks high on the ridge.

Good Morning Norway.  Beautiful light, scenery, and climbing the whole trip!

Erling enjoying the views of Lofoten from the Summit 5am! 
 After a great trip on the North Ridge, I got a call from a mother of an 8 year old girl Anya who's been saying since she was 6 that she would be a Mountain Guide when she grew up!  Her mom decided this was a good time to show her what climbing is all about so I took her out for the day.  She was a Very gifted climber and never fell off or let go once.  I had to keep moving the rope to harder routes.....and still she jammed and edged her little feet up everything.  A really fun day for all especially Anya!  Maybe she will be our lead guide in another 20 yrs?
Ayla before she heads up on another lap of small hand jamming.
Good form.. look at that foot work.
The last few days we have been taking laps on the Svolvær classic Geita (Goat) named after the two horns of rock on the summit.  This is a classic 5.7-5.9 3 pitch climb with wild summit traverse or Jump if you got the guts??  A great trip and seems to be the most popular trip for us this summer so far.  Heading back out to it tomorrow.  Its a good guide challenge managing groups on the wild formation.  Fun.
A climber goes for the quick answer... Jump... or traverse.

Thanks for checking out our blog.  Stay Tuned for more climbing!  Time to pack the bags for another day on the rock tomorrow.  Seth